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I lost 3rd and reverse coming home from nh. I brought it to a dealership to get it looked at, they said it was running hot and needed replacement, cost to do so was 2600. 00 I new I could get it done cheaper by a trans. Rebuilder so the next day I dropped it off for repair, the bill came to 2250. 00. Much to my surprise the owner and one of his staff said the part that failed was recalled back in Aug. 2000 all vehicles that had this trans. Needed to be replaced before selling the vehicle. I explained this to Ford motor but they said there is no recall on the trans. Parts. I did find some info on alldata. Com that relates more info please call me 508 889 8782 thank you scott dt.When the contact attempted to accelerate, the vehicle would not transition from idle or gain speed. It would take minutes for him to switch out of idle mode. The failure occurred at least four times. The contact took the vehicle to the dealer the first two times and repaired it under warranty. During the last two occurrences, he took the vehicle to a private repair shop once and another time repaired the issue himself. The throttle pedal assembly was the component that needed to be replaced. The manufacturer stated that they would not take any action for the failure. The current mileage is 138,754 and failure mileage was 30,573.Dealer has yet to be contacted. Dealer replaced 2 ujoints and the cam sensor due to drivetrain vibration.I guess that's why my truck is in douglas, wy and I live in needville, TX.Transmission broke down the first time at 27,000 miles. Second time on Jan 20, 2000. Entire clutch assembly was replaced both times. The following week, truck broke down again. Transmission needed to be replaced with 40,000 miles. Please provide any further information.This might have caused a crash. Dealer fixed this part 5 times, but it is still reoccurring.
Also, while downshifting from 2nd gear to 1st gear vehicle will go into reverse automatically, causing damages to the rear part of vehicle. One turbo lost its power and shutdown before being pulled over to road side. The transmission does not go into reverse gear.All started having the same problem at about 3,000 miles. Every time that you would be going down the road and you turned, the rear would make a bumping and grinding noise. You can hear it on the outside real bad. We took them to the dealership because they all started leaking rear end oil. They put the part on them, but the problem persisted. The leak had stopped on all of them, but the grinding noise still remained. We had to let one of them go back because it was so bad. The others are still doing horrible. Plus, when you put them into gear, mainly in reverse, you hear this god awful popping noise coming from the front when you start going. They all make that grinding noise in the rear end even when backing up and turning. Please help me. I have taken these trucks to the dealership so many times and yet they still all have the same problem. Thank you again. The transmission is relatively reliable, although the hydraulic clutch system has been a common source of problems that include gear grinding and rough engagements. The ZF S5-42 was used on 1987 to 1994 model year pickups, while the stronger S5-47 was introduced for the 1995 model year. Both transmission models are extremely similar, with only subtle changes that gives the S5-47 a slightly higher input torque rating. While the wide ratio versions of the S5-42 and S5-47 feature identical ratios, the close ratio S5-42 contains a much taller 1st and reverse gear ratio in addition to a slightly different spread in between. The S5-47 is a heavier duty version of the 42, but is otherwise interchangeable so long as the transmissions originate from a diesel application.
However, it is not advised to replace a S5-47 with a weaker S5-42; replacing a S5-42 with a stronger S5-47 presents no such problems. The greater strength of the S5-47 is attributed in part by a refined case design (smoother transitions and therefore less stress concentration points) and revised synchronizers. Many, if not most part numbers for internal components are the same for both transmissions. It's worth noting that the wide ratio S5-42 and S5-47 were offered in gas engine applications and are not interchangeable with diesel engine versions of the transmission. The ID tag may appear different than that in the figure above depending on model year. Depressing the clutch actuates a piston in the clutch master cylinder which pressurizes fluid in the system. The pressurized fluid causes subsequent movement of the clutch slave cylinder pushrod, which extends against the clutch fork and disengages the clutch. The system is similar in principle to a typical hydraulic brake system, where depressing the brake pedal subsequently forces the brake caliper pistons to extend against the brake pad. Transmission grinding, rough engagements, or other conditions in which it may feel as though the clutch is not disengaging completely are often associated with one of or a combination of the following problems: This is the bushing that sits in the eye of the pushrod where the clutch pedal swing arm pin is installed. When the bushing wears, excessive play in this joint prevents full engagement of the clutch when the pedal is depressed. Even a slight amount of air present in the system will significantly reduce clutch throw. Prior to diagnosing possible transmission problems, ensure the system is bled completely (this can be difficult at times and takes persistence). Before further diagnosis, we highly recommend these areas be thoroughly inspected and any worn parts replaced.Rollover noise should be minimal on engines equipped with a dual mass flywheel.
For single mass flywheels (flywheel has been converted from DMF to SMF) some noise is completely normal and should disappear when driving in gear. Try double clutching when going into reverse in order to avoid false reverse engagement. If transmission shifting is notchy only when transmission is cold, this is typically normal. Check master cylinder fluid reservoir level. If condition irradiates itself once transmission is warm, it should not be cause for concern. If problem persists when transmission is warm, see conditions above. Manual transmissions can develop problems after miles of service. Photo courtesy of MeMike200 on Wikipedia Manual transmission problems can develop due to high mileage, abuse, or lack of proper maintenance. But they are rather rare. Most manual transmission issues originate not with the transmission itself, but from related components like the clutch assembly, linkage, or driveline: the components that transmit turning power from the transmission to the wheels. Also, as we discuss below, symptoms that seem to be coming from the transmission can come from unrelated parts of the car. The key to diagnosing your manual transmission problem is to gather detailed information about the particular problem. For example, does the problem appear in only one of the gears, only at a certain speed, only when turning, only when downshifting, or after having serviced the clutch or another transmission component. Can you feel a vibration. Can you hear a clunking or grinding noise. Symptoms of a Bad Transmission Here are some symptoms that can indicate a worn-out transmission, each one of which we discuss below. Odd sounds (whirring, squealing, bumping, or thumping) Remember that this guide only deals with symptoms coming from the manual transmission (or transaxle) itself. Some symptoms that may appear to originate in the transmission actually come from the clutch (or another system), and vice versa.
To get a more accurate diagnosis, take a look at the Bad Clutch Symptoms guide as well. Your noise may not be coming from the transmission; a bad CV joint can produce noises when you accelerate or make a turn. Photo courtesy of Nutzdatenbegleiter on Wikimedia 1. Odd Noises That May Come From the Transmission The most common cause of a noisy transmission is insufficient oil, causing the gears or internal assembly to hum or whir. If a noisy transmission does have enough oil, the lubricant may be contaminated with metal shavings or particles. Insufficient or contaminated oil may cause the transmission to become noisy in some or all of the gears. But if you hear noises in a specific gear, that gear's teeth or synchronizer may be worn or damaged. Sources inside the transmission that can cause noise: A worn-out synchronizer For example, if you hear a thumping noise when you accelerate or decelerate, check first for these problems before you blame the transmission: A loose or damaged engine or transmission mount Knocking noises when driving at low speeds could come from the differential case or the CV joint. However, a worn bearing can also produce a knocking or thumping noise. A Three-Step Test for Transmission Bearing Noises That noise you keep hearing may come from a bearing. This three-step test is simple and can reveal problems with one or more transmission bearings. Fire up the engine and set the transmission to neutral. If you can hear a noise in neutral, suspect a worn-out input shaft bearing. Watch the video at the bottom of this article to see how internal problems can affect input shaft operation. You may need to push the pedal a little more. If you hear a squealing noise, you may have a worn out release bearing. If you hear a whirring sound then, you probably are dealing with a bad pilot bearing. Photo in the Public Domain 2. The Transmission Makes a Grinding Noise Problems with the transmission can also be revealed through a grinding noise.
A grinding noise may come from clashing gears. The clashing may happen because of worn or damaged gears, linkage problems due to wear or need of adjustment. Other potential sources could be a worn or damaged synchronizer, shift fork, or rail and bearing shafts. If you can hear the gears clashing only when downshifting, the problem may come from the synchronizer (too much play at the output shaft end). However, a grinding noise may also come from a dragging clutch. Shift linkage problems can cause your transmission to jump out of gear. Photo courtesy of Bobo is soft on Wikimedia 3. The Transmission Jumps Into Neutral This seems to be a common problem on worn-out transmissions. You shift into gear, and the transmission jumps out of gear. Once again, there could be other several causes for this problem, besides a worn-out transmission: A common problem is a worn out, stretched, or maladjusted shift linkage. A stretched linkage can be caused by a damaged engine or transmission mount. An external linkage can wear out or become loose and maladjusted, causing the transmission to jump out of gear. Look for rust and binding. You can try to adjust the linkage. But in most cases, you'll have to rebuild or replace that part of the assembly. In an internal shift linkage, the spring is part of the spring-loaded ball that locks the transmission into gear (detent). If the ball slips out of the notch, the transmission will jump out of gear. A worn out shift fork can make it hard to shift gears. Photo courtesy of OSX on Wikimeida 4. It's Hard to Shift Gears This problem happens when you find it hard to move the shift lever from one gear to another. Usually, this points to a problem with a loose linkage, worn shift cables or worn bearings. Pay attention to this: If you find it hard to change gears even with the engine not running, take a look at the linkage. If hard shifting only occurs when engine is running, check the clutch.
If the transmission has been moved recently, check for misalignment. Also, depending on your particular model, check the clutch hydraulic system and make sure it has no air. Check clutch adjustment as well. Check the linkage. You may need to raise the vehicle and safely support it on jack stands or remove a component in order to make the inspection, depending on your vehicle model. You may need to remove a shift lever boot. Get the help of an assistant to operate the linkage while you inspect the linkage, if necessary. Look for problems like binding, poor lubrication, misaligned components. To remove components for inspection, consult your vehicle repair manual. Haynes is a good aftermarket manual: get the manual for your exact model. Other causes for a hard-to-shift manual transmission include: Worn or loose internal components (shift fork, levers, shafts) Photo in the Public Domain 5. The Transmission Is Stuck in Gear You may find that you can't get the transmission out of gear. This symptom may indicate: Low oil level or the wrong type of oil Look for maladjustment, or wear or damage to rods, bushings, or shifter arms. However, remember that failure to get into gear can also be caused by the clutch, if the clutch isn't fully releasing or has other problems. The clutch might need adjustment. Check my article on bad clutches. Also, consult your vehicle repair manual. Inspect gaskets, seals, or loose bolts when looking for oil leaks. Photo in the Public Domain 7. Leak From the Transmission Manual transmission leaks can be caused by: bad or worn-out seals or gaskets, If it leaks after you just replaced the oil, you may have put too much. Consult your vehicle repair manual. Locate the source of the leak. Inspect the transmission oil seal and the O-ring in the vehicle speed sensor. Consult your vehicle repair manual for the proper procedure to replace seals, bearings, or gaskets.
Some of these repairs don't require much work, and you may be able to do the job in your own garage with a few common tools. Knowing about common manual transmission problems can help you diagnose your problems sooner, and possibly save money. This guide helps you identify and explore those common and not-so-common areas. Still, manual transmissions vary between models, so once you have an idea of the possible problem with your transmission, consult your model's vehicle repair manual to troubleshoot that particular issue. You may be able, in some cases, to do the repair yourself. Also, keep in mind that it's not uncommon for some transmissions to suffer from design issues, like those in some 2012-2015 Mazda3, 2014-2015 Mazda6, and 2013-2015 CX-5 models with hard to shift or jumping out of gear problems. If necessary, check online for possible recalls or technical service bulletins (TBS) for your specific model or call your local dealer. This content is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge and is not meant to substitute for formal and individualized advice from a qualified professional. After reversing, the shift lever easily gets into 1st gear position, but the car won't go forward, seems stuck in reverse. If after reverse put it in neutral and release the clutch, a clanging noise is heard, which can be felt in the clutch pedal, then shifts into 1st and go forward with no problem. Went to an authorized Audi repair shop, they replaced the clutch disk, plate and bearing but the problem remains. Now they say it's the flywheel and needs to be replaced. Answer: Seems like the throw out bearing is not engaging properly. But this needs to be diagnosed properly. Question: My 2017 Nissan Frontier has a hard time shifting from 2nd up into 3rd, down to 3rd from 4th is fine. It will sometimes grind a small bit. Do you know what might be causing this. Answer: There could be a problem with a worn out hub gear for the third gear.
This usually makes it hard to shift. Question: I have a 2004 Toyota Corolla manual transmission. When I downshift from gear 2 to 1, a sort of flapping sound came up but stops when on neutral or not noticeable in gear 1. What could be the problem. Answer: Check first for loose parts or components near the transmission, like loose exhaust hangers or transmission mounts. These are the usual sources. They may be there at higher gears but the sound might be muffled. Question: My Scion XD is going in reverse only but not forward, any advice. Answer: Usually low fluid levels can cause mechanical parts inside to seize. Also, check for a possible misadjustment or damage to the gearshift lever linkage. Other internal mechanical damage may also cause this problem. Hope this helps. Question: I have a VW Velocity Golf 1.4 and my clutch is slipping because of an oil leak from the gearbox. What can be done to remove the oil. Answer: People try different methods to clean oil-soaked clutches with different degree of success. It all depends on how much oil there is. With very little oil contamination, you may try brake cleaner, WD40, even carburetor cleaner. The small spots here and there may burn eventually. The best way is to replace it. Question: I have a 2000 Toyota Celica. I installed a new clutch bearing but the sound didn't go away. It's still making a grinding sound in 1, 2, and 3 gears. And the oil had metal shavings in it. What's wrong? Answer: There could be worn out blocker rings and synchronizers. If the metal shavings are gold colored, they may come from the blocker rings. Check out this other post: Question: I'm having issues with my Audi manual gear shifting. The shifting gets harder when the car is warm. I have noticed that the shifting gets normal when the car is switched off, BTW. There are no weird sounds from the gearbox. Do you have any idea what can be wrong here. Answer: Sometimes this is due to bad, contaminated fluid. A fluid flush may help.
But you need to have the problem properly diagnosed. Question: My 2009 Mitsubishi Lancer pops out of first gear half the time and grinds when downshifting to 2nd, what could be the problem. Answer: Probably the gearshift mechanism is faulty. Usually, this is caused by worn or damaged detent plugs or springs failing to keep the gear locked in place. Other problems that can cause the gear to slip: faulty shift forks or rail; a worn clutch shaft or roller bearing; worn pilot bushing; bad synchronizer assembly. Question: I have a 06 Scion. In first and second gear only you can literally feel the entire gear shift pull forward when accelerating. In second gear, it pulls so hard it drops to gear shift back into neutral. If I try to hold the gear shift in second, it grinds. Third, fourth and fifth are all fine. Do I need a new transmission. Answer: There could be a number of things. Gearshift, shift fork or rail problems, clutch shaft or synchronizer assembly damage. Question: My 98 Neon grinds when shifting into 1st and 2nd. There’s not any grinding sound. It just feels not smooth when shifting. Is this the CV joint. Or is it a transmission problem. Answer: Usually CV joints will feel rough, produce a humming or growling noise when dry, and usually, the bearings will be worn. But make sure your gearbox has enough oil. Question: My car has no gears. It began not going into 2nd. Then all bottom gears, 2nd, 4th and 6th; then all gears. Now the shifter just turns freely in circles. What could be the problem. Answer: First check that there’s not a problem with the linkage. The shifter should be properly connected to it. Other possibility is an internal mechanical problem in the transmission. Question: My car will shift into reverse but will start grinding when I start to back up and won’t go any further. It's a 98 VW Jetta. I am currently replacing the clutch but am wondering if the transmission or outer parts need to be replaced.
Answer: This could be a problem with the syncro, reverse idler bushings, or reverse idler gear. Sometimes, if this happens when shifting from Neutral to reverse, the problem is little clutch pedal free travel, or a sticking input shaft pilot bearing. Question: I just had new bushings put on the 5-speed shift lever in my 1999 Chevy 1500 4x4. Now, when I pull the stick to the left to put it in 1st gear, there is a strange noise. Almost like synchros. You can feel it on the stick when you hold it to the left. Any ideas what happened. Answer: Possibly there is some play between the shift lever and linkage. Question: So when I let off of the gas of my car (but still in gear) at highway speeds (50 mph plus) there's a thumping and bumping noise. I can feel it very slightly. My question is, what would cause this. I have no other issues with shifting. I just noticed it happening today. Answer: Usually, this type of noise comes from a worn universal joint; but other related issues that may cause noises during deceleration or even acceleration - axle bearings, or a worn transmission extension housing bushing. Question: My 69' VW Beetle makes a grinding noise when trying to shift into 2nd gear. If I shift into 1st with the clutch pressed and then try 2nd again, it will go into it fine. Do you have any ideas as to what might the problem be. Answer: Check the clutch linkage, there could be some binding. Another possibility is low oil or synchro worn. Question: I have a 97 LS Integra with 134000 miles on it. It makes a grinding noise at roughly 3000-3600rpm, 4000-4300rpm, and 5000-6500rpm in all gears, as well as in neutral. Any ideas of what it can be. Answer: There are several reasons for this: first make sure there's enough lubricant; worn bearings, gears or synchronizer can also cause this. Question: Sometimes when I shift my 1999 f250, it feels like it goes in gear, but the check engine light comes on, and there is no throttle response or grinding when I let out the clutch.
I try to go into different gears, and this usually works. It was doing it a little bit, and I changed the clutch. It worked great for a moment, then started doing the shift thing again and feels like it is getting worse. There is new fluid in the transmission and filled until it came out the side. Could it be a bad slave cylinder. Answer: It's hard to say without a diagnostic, but check the shift linkage for adjustment. Before you do that, though, make sure to download the trouble codes from the computer memory. They can point you in the right direction if there is any store in there. Question: I have a 2003 ford focus ZX3 hatchback 5-speed hydraulic clutch, replaced the clutch, plate and slave cylinder. Now while in neutral it first makes a high pitched squeaking noise, but quickly turns into a grinding noise. The sounds go away when the clutch is pressed and while in gear. I have bled the system.http://experience-hr.com/images/bosch-wfd-2073-washing-machine-manual.pdf